Crepe thread and fabric and method of preparing same



Patente 10, 1937 2,089,241 MREAD FABRIC METHOD CREPE F PREPARING SAME William Whitehead, Cumberland, Md., assig'nor to Celanese Corporation of America, a corporation of Delaware No Drawing.

Application June 12, 1936,

Serial No. 84,977

6 Claims.- (01. 117-2) This invention relates to the manufacture of crepe threads and filaments of cellulose acetate or other organic derivatives of cellulose and to the production of fabrics therefrom, where a creping agent or aid, containing a mixture or solution of a plasticizer, an'oil, a sulphonated fatty alcohol and soap for enhancing the crepe and textile properties is incorporated with yarns prior to forming them into crepe threads. An object of this invention is the economic and expeditious production of threads, containingorganic derivatives of cellulose, which have a high degree of crepe suitable for the production, of crepe fabrics. A further object of this invention is the treatment of yarns and the twisting of the same to a high degree of twist in such a manher as to produce fabrics having a uniform creping property. A further object of this, in-

vention is the production of crepe threads that when immersed in aheated creping bath. A still of threads containing organic derivativesof cellulose with a creping aid or agent which permits a more uniform and faster plasticizing action by steam than creping agents heretofore employed.

It has been found that if yarns of organic derivatives of cellulose are tightly twisted, especially in the presence of steam, the same may be woven into a fabric which produces a substantial amount of crepe. It has also been found that the crepe threads containing organic derivatives of cellulose form a crepe fabric, the type and fabrics consisting entirely -or substantially of threads of organic derivatives of cellulose. By employing this invention, however, the conditions may. be disregarded within wide limits and 45 threads that will produce a uniform type of crepe are formed. Furthermore, by employing :this invention, the degree and type of crepe produced is governed by fewer variables, which may;

:easily be controlled, such as the amount of twist imparted to the thread, the type and temperature of treatment given to the'fabric and such 1 other manual operations. Further, by employing this invention, the length of treatment of the fabric in a boil-ofi bath or creping bath ismate- 55 'rially shortened. Furthermore, fabric formed shrink and buckle in a very short period of time from threads produced in accordance with the present invention shrink faster and more uniformly than fabrics formed by the prior methods.

In accordance with my invention, highly twisted crepe threads of filaments of organic deriva- -5 tives of celluloseare produced from threads of filaments of organic derivatives of cellulose, which have incorporated therewith a mixture or solution containing a plasticizer, an oil and a sulphonated fatty alcohol or its salt, with or without soap, by crepe twisting and during the insertion of the crepe twist steaming the thread. It is of great advantage to have moisture present during the steaming. By the term fsulphonated fattyalcohol is meant the fatty alcohols which 15 .contain a sulphuric acid group and/or the fatty alcohol esters of sulphuric acid.

This invention is of especial value and will be more particularly described in connection with the production of crepe threads or fllamentsof cellulose. acetate.

By incorporating as a creping agent or aid a mixture or solution of a plasticizer, oil and sulphonatedfatty alcohol or its salt, with the filaments of cellulose acetate, it has been found possible to produce crepe threads which yield fabrics exhibiting excellent crepe eflects. Apart from the great advantage of a strong resultant thread, the twisting operation itself is greatly facilitated in that twisting may be satisfactorily accomplished under conditions of twist and the spindle speed which, in the absence of the creping agent or aid, would give rise to frequent thread breakage.

By employing. a creping aid or agent in accordance with this invention, a much more uniform 5 crepe thread is produced. The threads being treated with the steam wet uniformly and readily. The amount of moisture absorbed by the thread while under the influence of steam is greater when employing the creping agent or aid in accordance with this invention. The creping agent' or aid employed in accordance with this invention effects a sufliclent amount of lubrication to the thread such that all the textile operations may be made without further lubrication.

By incorporating the creping agent or aid containing a plasticizer, oil and sulphonated fatty alcohol or its salt with the filaments of cellulose acetate, not only are the threads given enhanced properties for the textile operation and a more uniform crepe pebble produced in the fabric, but the speed of shrinkage in the boil-ofi or creping bath is greatly increased.

Any suitable 'plasticizer, and by that term is meant softening agent,-swelling agent, etc., for

the cellulose acetate, may be mixed with or dissolved in a mixture or solution of sulphonated fatty alcohol or its salts and an oil with or without a soap, and this mixture or solution when in- 5 corporated with the yarn or filaments prior to or during the twisting operation, aids in imparting the high degree of twist thereto. This creping agent or aid may be incorporated with the filaments or threads of cellulose acetate by adding 10 the same to the spinning solution or dope from which the filaments constituting the thread or i the yarn are formed. Thus, up to 10% by weight of the creping agent or aid may be added to a solution of an organic derivative of cellulose in 15 a volatile solvent and the same extruded through orifices of suitable diameter to form the type of yarn desired. Either the wet or dry method of spinning may be employed. By another modification the creping agent or aid may be incor- 20 porated with the yarn by applying the same as a coating to the yarn after the yarn has been formed. The creping agent or aid may be applied to the yarn as a coating at the metier as the yarns are formed or during any subsequent 25 winding operation prior to imparting the twist thereto. The creping agent or aid may be applied to the yarn while the yarn is in a stage of travel as during its formation or during the winding operation, by causing the yarn to contact with a wick or roller that dips into the mixture or solution containing the same, or by any other suitable furnishing device or method. Any suitable plasticizer may be employed in solution or mixture with an oil such as dibutyl phthalate. The creping agent or aid contains besides a suitable plasticizer, a lubricant and wetting-out aid which preferably consists of a mixture or solution of a sulphonated fatty alcohol or its salt and an oil. The oil may be any suitable 1' vegetable oil suchas olive oil, castor oil, teaseed oil, cottonseed oil, etc., or more preferably a mineral oil which is light in color and has, for instance, a Saybolt viscosity of from 45 to 60 seconds. The sulphonated fatty alcohol is a 4,5 sulphonated product of oleyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, palmetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, etc. The sodium, potassium, triethanolamine, etc. salts of the sulphonated fatty alcohol may be substituted for part or all of the sulphonated fatty alcohol. 50 In the specification and claims the term sulphonated fatty alcohol compound is intended to include sulphonated fatty alcohol, a salt of a If desired, the salt may be formed in, the creping 55 aid or agent by adding the base, preferably tri ethanolamine to the solution or mixture. The amount of base employed may be the amount or less than the amount required to neutralize the solution or mixture. When employing certain '60 mixtures of oils and sulphonated fatty alcohol compounds, it may be desirable to add to the mixture or solution a small amount of a fatty acid soap to increase the stability of thesolution or mixture. Any suitable soap may be employed 65 such, as the sodium, potassium, triethanolamine soaps or the fatty acids such as oleic, stearic, palmetic, etc.

The creping agent or aid may contain the above mentioned ingredients in any suitable pro- 1 7o portion. However, I have found that excellent results are obtained by mixing with 100 parts of plasticizer from 20 to 40 parts sulphonated fatty alcohol, 60 to 80 parts of a mineral oil and from to 10 parts of a soap. I have further found 75 that although any suitable plasticizer, oil and sulphonated fatty alcohol or a mixture of these.

sulphonated fatty alcohol compound may be employed, it is preferable to employ a mixture or solution of dibutyl phthalate, sulphonated oleyl or lauryl alcohol compound, mineral oil and a potassium oleate soap. The creping agent or aid may be applied to the threads in any suitable amount, for instance, there may be applied to the thread a coating of the creping agent or aid amounting to from 1% to 4% on the weight of the thread. However, from 1% to 10% or more may be applied. If desired, the creping agent or aid may be applied to the yarn from aqueous emulsions of same.

The threads may consist of substantially continuous filaments of cellulose acetate or they may contain discontinuous filaments of cellulose acetate, the length of which may vary within wide limits. For example, the threads may be those spun from a mass of discontinuous filaments or those prepared in the manner described in British Patent No. 420,083. The threads may contain besides organic derivatives of cellulose, other textile filaments or fibers. Further the threads may be formed from a bundle of substantially continuous filaments or by doubling two or more yarns. The threads also may be formed from fibers by cotton, silk and woolen methods of forming yarns.

If desired, the filaments of the threads may contain water-insoluble compounds such as compounds of pigment-like character, in such form as materially to modify the luster of the filaments (e. g. barium sulphate or titanium dioxide), or loading metal compounds, for example, tin com pounds.

In carrying out the new process, twisting may be effected on a device of the kind in which the thread is drawn off over the end of a rotating package through a guide fixed preferably substantially in line with the axis of rotation of the package and is thereafter wound on a bobbin or the like, the thread being passed, on its way from the guide to the bobbin, through steam. In this way the thread is subjected to the action of the steam during the actual application of a substantial amount of the twist, or to the action of both steam and moisture if it is passed through steam under such conditions that moisture is present.

On the other hand, any other suitable crepe twisting device may be employed in conjunction with steaming. For example, a ring twister may be used for the crepe twisting of thread consisting of filaments or discontinuous cellulose acetate filaments, or by other suitable devices. As examples of such devices may be mentioned fiyers and the floating ring device described in British Patent No. 304,806 to British Celanese Limited and others.

Steaming ,may conveniently be effected by allowing the thread to pass through a suitable chamber supplied with steam preferably under such conditions that moisture is present. The chamber is provided with smallholes, top and bottom, to permit passage of the thread, and also with a steam inlet. If desired, a single steam chamber may be'arranged to serve a number of twisting devices, being provided with inlet and outlet holes for the thread of each device. Such an apparatus may conveniently consist of a horizontal pipe mounted over a row of twisting devices and provided with eyes of porcelain, stain less steel, or other suitable material at appropriate pointson top and bottom for the entrance and exit of the threads. The diameter of the pipe may be suflicient to afford the thread the are prepared without steaming in the presence requisite length of travel in the steam. Alternatively, a pipe having a smaller diameter may be used, in which case the pipe may be provided with hollow nipples communicating therewith and through which the yarn passes, the nipples being of suficient length to provide, together with the diameter of the pipe, the requisite length of travel in the steam. f

The presence of the desired moisture may be assured by supplying wet steam to the steaming device and/or by arranging for the condensation of steam to supply the requisite amount of moisture. Wet steam may be conveniently produced by passing steam through water at suitable velocity, for instance, small traps for condensed water may be provided at suitable intervals in the steaming chamber and steam injected therethrough by means of small pipes or orifices. Another method of ensuring the presence of moisture is to wet the thread with water. For example, the bobbins of thread may be wetted before the twisting operation or, better, water may be applied to the thread by means of a wick or other device after the thread leaves the spindle and prior to its entering the steaming device.

Steam at slightly above atmospheric pressure,

or at a pressure of 1 to 2 centimeters of water,

is most conveniently employed. If desired, however, the steaming may be effected with steam at any desired super-atmospheric pressures, e. g. steam at 10-25 lbs. per square inch.

- A steaming treatment of relatively short duration such as may be secured by passing the yarn at a speed of from 2 to 10 metres per minute through say from 1" to 6" of steam has-been found to give satisfactory results. Lengthier treatments may, however, be employed, for example, the yarn may be passed at the said speeds through 6" to 12" or more of steam.

The cellulose acetate filaments of the threads having incorporated therein the creping agent or aid very readily undergo stretching when the threads are twisted under the influence of the a steam and moisture. The amount of stretch may be measured by comparing the original thread denier with the final thread denier (after untwisting). It has been found that when a'cellulose acetate thread is crepe twisted by the new process involving the treatment of the same with a creping agent or aid and steaming during twisting so as to produce a crepe thread ofgood strength and creping properties, the denier of the resultant thread is, in general, owing to imparted stretch, less and even substantially less than if the thread is simply crepe twistedwithout such treatments. The stretch imparted to the filaments of the thread during the twisting operation may, for example be of the order of -25% of their original length, and particularly -20%. For example, the stretching may be such that the denier of the crepe twisted thread is from 95 to 115%, 120% or 125% or more, and particularly 100 to 110% of that of the thread before crepe twisting, especially in case of threads having an original denier of 200 or less. In the case of heavier threads, 1. e. those having a denier above 200, the denier increase may be greater and still good crepe effects attained.

The degree of twist applied in accordance with the new process may vary within wide limits. A feature of the process is thatit enables a very high degree of twist to be applied without such a great weakening of the threads as is invariably experienced when cellulose acetate crepe threads of a creping agent or aid. The process also enables the use of a reduced number of turns per inch to produce the same type of crepe from prior processes. The process, moreover, permits of the insertion of twists which are impossible of attainment without the steaming in the presence of a creping agent or aid, owing to the breakage of the thread. This is important since it enables crepe fabrics having very pronounced crepe effects to be produced. The crepe figure can be regulated according to requirements. The degree of twist desirable in any particular case depends upon a number of factors, including the precise effects required, and the denier and number of filaments in the thread. For example, threads of 150 denier may be twisted to about 55 to 75 or more turns per inch, while 100 denier threads may be twisted to about 60 to 100 or more turns per inch. Proportionate twists may be used in case of threads of other deniers.

By the new process highly twisted cellulose acetate crepe threads may beproduced in which the filaments are extremely closely packed. As appears from a microscopic examination of the cross-sections of yarns twisted in accordance with this invention, the filaments are squeezed together into substantially as close contact as possible,

causing some distortion of the cross-section of at least some of the filaments thereof. The filaments, however, are not stucktogether nor. packed together and can be separated upon untwisting into individual filaments. The threads produced in accordance with the present invention have a specific gravity of at least 85% of that of a solid thread.

While thisv invention enables production of threads which yield satisfactory crepe efi'ects without a special treatment other than the twist-' ing of the threads while it contains a creping agent or aid in the presence of a steaming treatment characteristic of the process, other devices and treatments may, if desired, be employed further .to improve the properties of the crepe threads and/or fabrics produced therefrom. For example, crepe threads, that have the creping agent or aid dispersed in the filaments, may be sized at any suitable stage of their manufacture, for example, in the course of winding on to a bobbin from which twisting is eifected. In this connection, particular mention may be made of sizing materials selected in according with the considerations laid down in British Patent No. 348,589. For example, a casein, egg albumen, or other size which is not very readily removed by aqueous treatments, may be employed. Another size which may beemployed is a drying oil, if desired, one which has been only partially oxidized, e. g. boiled or blown linseed oil.

The highly twisted crepe threads may be incorporated in the fabrics in various ways, for

of artificial silk produced by other processes.

The cellulose acetate crepe threads may be associated in the fabrics with threads of other materials by doubling or twisting together the crepe 5 thread of cellulose acetate with the other thread or threads. Where the fabrics contain threads of low twist these may wholly be of cellulose acetate or wholly or in part of other materials, e. g.

natural silk or regenerated cellulose.

If a large amount of active plasticizer is present in the thread during the creping operation in a hot bath, the filaments become too plastic and the creping forces release themselves without buckling the yarn. When in such cases the fab- 15 ric is first scoured cold, however, it crepes heavily in the creping bath and produces a very uniform fabric. When smaller amounts or less active plasticizers are employed, the fabric need not be scoured cold prior to the treatment in the hot 20 bath to produce the crepe effect on the fabric. The action of the various plasticizers employed may be tested to ascertain which, if any, and to what extent the same should be scoured in the cold before placing the fabric in the hot bath to 25 develop the crepe effect or buckle in the fabric. The use of a creping agent or aid containing dibutyl phthalate and a sulphonated fatty alcohol compound is preferred as this creping agent or aid is eficient as a textile lubricant, as a wet- 30 ting aid in a steam treatment and an excellent plasticizer producing creping properties. The creping agent containing dibutyl phthalate, a Sulphonated fatty alcohol compound and mineral oil is comparatively stable and resistant to 3d ageing or oxidative changes. It is also easily scoured from the fabric;

1 Fabrics containing highly twisted crepe threads prepared in accordance with this invention may be scoured in the cold bath to remove a part or all the plasticizer in the creping agent or aid employed during the twisting operation, if the removal thereof is necessary, and then subsequently scoured, for example, in the manner adopted in connection with fabrics comprising 5 highly twisted yarn of natural silk. Enhanced crepe effects may be obtained by employing scouring or other aqueous crepe baths at or near the boiling point. The fabric made in accordance with this invention may be caused to crepe 50 by immersing the same in a bath, containing up to grams or more per litre of soap, that is maintained at about 95 to 105 C. However, by employing certain plasticizers, the temperature of the creping bath may be considerably lower.

55 The period of treatment in the heated bath may be from about 1 to 30 minutes-or more. The delustering effect of all high temperature scouring baths upon fabrics containing threads of lustrous cellulose acetate may be minimized by 69 incorporating therein salts or sugars.

An important characteristic of fabrics exhibiting crepe effects, such as flat crepe, produced in accordance with this invention is that unlike 6 crepe fabrics heretofore produced, they do not shrink substantially when washed or otherwise, treated with aqueous liquids, nor do they tend to develop spots when subjected locally (such as by rain) to aqueous liquids. Therefore, garments 70 or other articles made of such fabric may be laundered in the ordinary way without recourse to dry cleaning.

As an illustration in describing this invention and not as a limitation, the following example 76 of a suitable creping agent or aid is given:

other organic derivatives of Example A creping agent or aid is formed by mixing together Parts by weight Dibutyl phthalate 100 Sulphonated oleyl alcohol compound 30 52 second mineral oil 70 Potassium oleate 8 To this creping agent or aid there may be added suitable identifying tints such as Xylene Cyanol FF, Acid Green 26:, Xylene Light Yellow 3G, etc. As a further illustration in describing this invention. and not as a limitation, the following example of the application of the creping agent or aid to a thread containing organic derivatives of cellulose is given:

Example The yarn of cellulose acetate and an initial denier of 150 is caused to contact with a furnishing device which applies thereto a coating of a creping agent or aid. The creping agent or aid is formed in accordance with the above example.

The coating applied to the yarn may be any suitable amount, for example, from 1 to 4% or more based on the weight of the yarn. This yarn is twisted to a crepe thread while under the influ ence of steam, such that approximately 75 turns per inch are inserted therein. The threads are woven into a fabric by employing a warp consisting of 100 ends per inch of 100 denier low twist yarn and 60 picks per inch of the crepe twisted yarn. The fabric is treated in a hot bath maintained at about 95 C. for a period of from 10 to 20 minutes. The fabric produced has a heavy crepe effect, is exceptionally uniform and strong. The shrinkage crosswise the fabric is from 3 inches to 4 inches to every 36 inches. The material is spot-proof and does not materially shrink upon further treatment in cleaning baths or solutions.

In the appendant claims the term plasticizer is intended to include within its scope any reagent, some of which are listed above, which has a swelling softening or slight solvent action upon the filaments containing organic derivatives of cellulose at the temperature of the steam treat ment. This term is intended to include plasticizers, softeners and swelling agents.

While this invention has been described in particular connection with cellulose acetate, it is applicable for use with yarns or threads made of cellulose, such as cellulose formate, cellulose propionate, cellulose butyrate, or other organlc esters of cellulose, or cellulose ethers such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and benzyl cellulose.

It is to be understood that the foregoing detailed description is merely given by way of illustration and many alterations may be made therein without departing from the spirit of my invention.

Having described my invention, what I desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe threads of filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises incorporating with the thread a creping agent or aid containing a plasticizer, an oil and a sulphonated fatty alcohol compound, steaming the thread and crepe twisting the thread of filaments while it is subjected to the action of the steam.

2. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe threads of filaments of cellulose acetate,

which comprises incorporating with the thread a creping agent or aid containing a plasticizer, an oil and a sulphonated fatty alcohol compound,

steaming the thread and crepe twisting the thread 01' filaments while it is subjected to the action of the steam.

3. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe threads of filaments of cellulose acetate, which comprises incorporating with the thread a creping agent or aid containing a plasticizer, an oil and a sulphonated oleyl alcohol compound, steaming the thread and crepe twisting the thread of filaments while it is subjected to the action of the steam.

4. Process for the production of highly-twisted crepe threads of filaments of eelluloseaeetate.

whichcompfises incorporating with the thread a creping agent or aid containing a plasticizer, an oil and a sulphonated lauryl alcohol compound, steaming the thread and crepe twisting the thread of filaments while it is subjected to the action of the steam.

5. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe threads of filaments of an organic derivative of cellulose, which comprises incorporating with the thread a creping agent or aid containing 100 parts plasticizer, 20 to parts sulphonated fatty alcohol compound, to parts oil and 5 to 10 parts soap, steaming the thread and crepe twisting the thread while it is being steamed.

6. Process for the production of highly twisted crepe threads 01 filaments of cellulose acetate, which comprises incorporating with the thread a creping agent or aid containing parts plasticizer, 30 parts sulphonated fatty alcohol compound, 70 parts mineral oil and 8 parts soap, steaming the thread and crepe twisting the thread while it is being steamed.

WILLIAM WHITEHEAD. 

